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Interview with …
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He’s Chef Frederic C. Castan from Avignon, the heart of Provence. After he developed more than a passing interest in his mother’s cooking, he began doing some cooking at the age of 14, fascinated with the ever-changing shapes and consistencies of foods as he worked with them. When he left France, he spoke three languages and broadened his food experience with positions in Southern California, Mexico and Alaska. He mixed cuisines. The Mexican avocado and chile pepper ice creams fascinated him. He was already winning awards for his cuisine. Mm: When did you come to work at Sofitel Chicago Water Tower? Chef: I came here when it opened in March 2002. We like it here. Mm: What is your title? Chef: I am executive chef overseeing our Café des Architectes and LeBar. When I was chef in California, many patrons came to be seen. Here, they come to eat what they want. This is very rewarding for me. Mm: Staff size? Chef: We have a staff of 42 cooks, bakers and stewards. We make all our breads and pastries right here. At a recent “Fun-Damentals of Fine Living” seminar at the hotel, Chef Castan worked with Luis Torres of the Allied Domecq Academy of Wine. Torres praised Castan highly for coming up with just the right foods for their special wine pairings for seminar’s luncheon and dinner. One course was:
Pan seared Foie Gras over Mm: How do you get ready for a presentation where wines and food compliment one another? Chef: With a wine pairing, I try first to go with the season, then I plan the food. Once the menus are done, Luis and I taste them the foods. Mm: Then what? Chef: We felt we should go with a wine with a lot of fruit. We had a little sweetness of the lobster, also the figs. We also had slight acidity with the sweet yet tart balsamic vinegar. Mm: How did you decide? Chef: We knew two or three wines would do it. The contrast couldn’t be too much. We couldn’t take away too much from the dish. Mm: It sounds difficult. Chef: Not really. Some chefs select the wine first then the dish to go with the wine. I prefer to have my dish already done. Mm: Do you ever change the food? Chef: Once we find the wine we want, then I may tweak the dish a little. Mm? How long does it take? Chef: I would say the preparation of a pairing would take a good couple of days, allowing ordering the food. Mm: Does this include cooking time? Chef: Yes. This allows for cooking, simmering, marinating, there is a lot of preparation and timing, adjusting the spices, tasting it. It has to be right. Mm: Does everyone end up happy? Chef: Some people really care more for the wine than the food, they just really need a bite of food. I don’t think a good wine will bring the food up. I think it has to be equal. Good food cannot bring the wine up, either. Both need to be equally balanced. In this case, we went with the Mumm Joyesse. (Note: Their choice was an unusual use of a dessert Champagne mid-course.) Mm: It was a great meal! Chef: Thanks. Pairing is very important. If you have a really great meal, then lousey service, something will always be missing. Everything has to be equal. Since his early North American cooking, Castan has gone back more toward his French cooking, but a new French cuisine: Chef: Our food is lighter now. Mm: How? Chef: I don’t like to use too much butter, cream, that stuff. We use mainly olive oil and a little lemon, fresh produce, what is good our health, but it will have all the flavor of the dish. What you eat is the food, and you remember what you are eating and how the flavor was enhanced. Mm: It sounds good. Chef: We all share the same vision. We all want healthy, and we use only the best ingredients. Castan is married and has two grown sons. One son may go into food as a career, however he warned his son it is important to love food to work with it all day. Mm: When your food is prepared served for a big event, the work all done, what do you enjoy kicking back with? What is your very favorite after-dinner drink? Chef: Armagnac. It is close to a Cognac. It comes from a region in France which is just below the town of Cognac, very small. Mm: What’s so special about it? Chef: They treat cognac the way they are supposed to, aging it in oak for many years. It is very, very good. Mm: I never heard of it. Chef: It’s not advertised very widely. Mm: Do you take it plain? Chef: I like it plain, room temperature. The only thing I would have with it would be a good cigar. If I could get a Cuban, it would be a good Cuban … © Marty Martindale, 2005, Largo FL
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