|
(Home)
FRED HARVEY’S FAR BETTER SOUTHWEST, |
||||
|
|
This review is based on information obtained from The Harvey Girls: Women who opened the West, by Lesley Polling-Kempes (Marlowe & Company), also recipes from the cookbook during their time, The Harvey House Cookbook: Memories of Dining along the Santa Fe Railroad, (Longstreet Press) by George H. Foster and Peter C. Weiglin. Their bottom line states, "Train travel and the Santa Fe [railroad]—Harvey hotels comprised a way of life now gone, and those who remember it lament its passing." Fred Harvey lived from 1835 to 1901 and had an uncanny sense for what would solve food problems as a country moved itself southwestward. During this time, he established restaurants, lunchrooms and hotels throughout the southwest from Chicago to California. These were all linked up with the Santa Railroad, and once the line put on dining cars, Harvey served foods there, as well. The introduction of the automobile hurt the train business. After this, Harvey catered to this travel with destination resorts, national park trips, packaged motor trips plus the marketing of southwestern Indian handcrafts. After World War II, passenger trains were largely curtailed and government subsidies Harvey is famed for his Harvey Girls. He frequently found it difficult hiring a good force of men for his food service. This brought him to introduce women into these jobs. Known as the Harvey Girls, he paid them $17.50 per month and provided free room, board and clean uniforms. The women were recruited through newspaper ads from the northeast. They needed to be of good moral character, have an eighth-grade education, have good manners, be neat and arcticulate. They agreed to six-month contracts during which they would not marry and would abide by all company rules. They also received a railway pass. The work was not easy. Trays were heavy; schedules were tight. However, the women tended to like the work and brought a new respectability to waitressing, particularly in an unrefined area of the country. Later, as a group they were credited with bringing higher standards to the west and many went on to raise prominent families. A Harvey Girl Historical Society exists, and there is a museum at (909) 943-3020. Here’s a few of the recipes all of the Fred Harvey Houses served to their appreciative diners. This was also one of the earliest introductions of southwestern North American food to first-timers to new areas in the U.S.
Albondigas Soup, Chef Dan Tachet, Las Vegas, New Mexico, made with onions, veal green peppers eggs, bouillons, spices, corn meal and parsley. Currant Soup, Inspector Fred Wendell, a simple recipe of ripe currents, cornstarch and water, served very cold. Caruso Salad, Chef Charles Zuellig, Alvarado Hotel, Albuquerque, a simple salad of lettuce, tomatoes, pineapple topped with French dressing. Bright Angel Mexican Salisbury Steak, Chef Eli Gomez, Chef, Bright Angel Lodge, Grand Canyon, made with ground beef, pimento green chili pepper, onion, bread crumbs, eggs and red chili sauce. Lamb Chops a la Nelson made with onions, cheese mushrooms and Tongue tips. Jellied Chicken, Inspector Wendell, called only for a whole chicken with feet, salt and pepper. This recipe was mostly method. Spaghetti al la Dominicaine was a chafing dish of cooked spaghetti, anchovy paste and puree of mushrooms. Chiles Rellenos al la Konrad, Konrad Aligaier, Chef, La Fonda Hotel, Santa Fe. He took 8 canned Ortega chili peppers filled each with 1 tablespoon grated cheese rolled in flour and dipped in beaten egg, rolled again in the flour and browned in butter. Maple Melange, Fred Wendell again. This called for maple syrup, steamed figs, gelatin, powdered sugar, vanilla, heavy cream and macaroon crumbs. Empanadas with Vanilla Sauce, Chef Konrad Allgaier, at first glance seems unlikely. It called for chopped cooked beef, orgegano, sugar, suet, mincemeat and lemon peel. Their Breads & Muffins section, all but one, was a preparation made with corn meal. Huevos Rancheros, Allgaier, LaFonda, called for cooked pinto beans, red chili powder, onion, butter and minced green chili topped with baked eggs. The book’s section on Sauces contained 26 different sauces from a standardized Frankfurter Sauce to White Chaud-Froid Sauce.
Reviewed by Marty Martindale, 2005
|
|||