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The people of the
Balearic Islands, off Spain’s west coast close to France’s
influence, are known for their zesty food and zeal for life. George
Semier, in his article, The Culture of Tapas, in Saveur Magazine,
describes tapa, tapas this way, “The tapeo—or tapas-bar
spree—invents itself as it goes along: conversations with strangers,
spontaneous introductions, the unexpected appearance of an old friend or
ex-lover... Anything can happen on a tapeo, and often does. The tapeo
reflects the Spanish approach to life. This itinerant tasting and
tippling stems from an unabashed love of play and pleasure.”
Mahon is the capital
of Minorca, second largest Balearic Island, first settled by the
Tunisians. Later, the Romans, Arabs, Greeks, North African pirates,
French and the British called her shots. The latter finally ceded it to
Spain in 1802. Today, Mahon is a trendy vacationing spot for
Europeans. The two-level picture, taken from an upper deck of Holland
America’s m.s. Prinsendam during one of its world tours, shows the
magnificent 250-step Georgian staircase approach to Mahon.
Though not all agree,
it seems Mahon and her battling past earned the town credit for the
creation of the condiment, “Mahon-naise.” This is said to have come
about when Louis XV dispatched General Duc de Richelieu, to Minorca to
rid Mahon of Engishmen entrenched there. To celebrate victory, the story
goes, the General, quite the bon vivant, was apt to host his guests at
elaborate banquets in their altogether. On this occasion, the General
challenged his chef to come up with a special sauce made from eggs and
cream. There being no cream, yet plenty of olive oil, the chef proceeded
to very patiently accomplish his first emulsion, blending eggs with oil.
Voille! “Mahon-naise,” later mayonnaise. It’s a reasonable stretch to
believe mayonnaise became more of a favorite as garlic mayonnaise, also
called Allioli, tart and spicey, so suited to the flamboyant, partying
people of southern Europe.
Countering the
Richelieu victory sauce theory, Clifford A. Wright, cook, food writer
and research scholar discusses the topic in his book, A Mediterranean
Feast, The Story of the Birth of the Celebrated Cuisines of the
Mediterranean from the Merchants of Venice to the Barbary Corsairs. He
states, “The first apparent mention of anything resembling Allioli is in
the writings of Pliny the Elder (A.D. 23-79), who was a Roman procurator
in Tarragona on the Catalan coast for a year and writes that when garlic
is ‘beaten up in oil and vinegar it swells up in foam to a surprising
size.’ There is no doubt in my mind that mayonnaise was an evolutionary
development from allioli,” claims Wright.” (His recipe for Allioli
appears at the end of this story.)
The zest of Allioli
is a natural for many tapas which actually have practical origins. “Tapa,”
in Spanish means “lid.” A lid for a tapa in earliest times was a piece
of bread, a slice of meat or a small dish with the small snack on it.
These lids covered the wine glasses and served two purposes. First it
kept the wine clean and the flies out. Secondly, it seemed to hold down
drunkenness, for no one was drinking many hours of most days on an empty
stomach. Originally, tapas were free. Once chefs became innovative, an
industry was born. Now many bars feature as many as 75 different tapas.
Fino and Manzanilla sherry is the preferred wine.
Some tapas examples:
·
Chorizo croquettes
served with garlic “mahon-naise”
·
Marinated chicken
breast and peppers served with garlic mayonnaise
·
Red pepper, sweetcorn
croquettes served with garlic mayonnaise
·
Crab claws served
with garlic mayonnaise
·
Allioli potato salad
·
Served in cold dishes
such as hors d’oeuvres, eggs, fish, meat, vegetables, olives
·
Used as a base for
remoulade, sauce andalouse, sauce montefrio (curry flavor), rouille
(cayenne, saffron)
·
Served with paella,
local lobster Serrano ham and roast pork
ALLIOLI RECIPE
In Clifford A.
Wright’s Mediterranean Feast, he states, “Allioli is traditionally
served with rice dishes or fish preparations, although many Catlans use
it as a kind of a kind of a ketchup for anything and everything.”
Wright’s Recipe:
5
large garlic cloves, peeled
½ t
salt
1
large egg
1 cup
light olive oil or 1/2 cup each pure or virgin olive oil
and 1/2
cup vegetable oil combined
1. Mash garlic
and salt together in mortar until it is a paste. In the food processor
process the egg for 30 seconds.
2. Add garlic
paste to the food processor, and slowly drizzle in the oil until
absorbed. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour before using. Keep refrigerated
for up to a week. Makes 1 ½ cups.
© Marty Martindale,
2004, Largo FL
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