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CELERIAC, ONE-TIME ROOT CELLAR QUEEN MAKES COMEBACK
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Celeriac is not
only ugly, it’s usually lopsided. Its rough, deep brown exterior looks rather
like the surface of the moon, for it is channeled with nubs, crevices and hairy
rootlets. All this won for celeriac, once root cellar queen, a rather
Cinderella-like fate, as she was practically banished from the North American
scene when refrigeration appeared. Prettier, graceful, slender,
pale-green-stalked, cultivated celery became the favored food with a celery
flavor in this land. Europe never despaired it.
It’s always fun to take the mystery out of something, get to feel comfortable with it. This root vegetable, celeriac, (pronounced celery’-ack), mystifies many. Related to parsley but not the celery we are more familiar with, it bears many names which further complicates it. Known as celery root, celery knob, celery knave, German celery, also turnip-rooted celery, it’s worldly. In praise of celeriac, Deborah Madison, author of the award-winning, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, says "Celeriac has lots of character and a bracingly clean flavor. It’s rather daunting, even frumpy looking," admits Madison. She then defends it and bids us, "Approach it with authority," and take charge of it. "Once peeled, you’ll appreciate its pleasing celery taste without the crunch." A world world player, this queen was introduced to Britain in the 1700s, it is also grown in the Netherlands, France, Belgium, Germany, Denmark and Italy. It’s a favorite in the Orient and India, as well. Today, the Netherlands devotes a significant amount of their export agriculture to celery root. Three quarters of their crop is exported, and the remainder is either processed or sold locally on the fresh market. The long-time, famed bistros of France serve time-honored Celeriac Remoulade, a salad of raw celery root with a mustard and mayonnaise dressing (recipe below). Celeriac is a good source of potassium, phosphorous and vitamin C, with small amounts of Vitamin B, calcium and iron. It is credited with boosting the immune system. Dieters like the fact it has only 40 calories in a 4-ounce serving, 154 calories per pound. Though high in sodium, it is rich, filling, high fiber, fat-free and cholesterol-free. Select roots slightly larger than softballs, heavy for their size and smooth as possible. A good one will be firm, with a distinct aroma of celery. Always peel celeriac using a knife rather than a potato peeler. The interior is smooth and white, similar to a white turnip root. Once peeled, cut into coarse chunks and toss with lemon juice. You might have to ask your produce department manager to special order some for you. Celeriac’s a versatile root, and here are some serving suggestions: · Shred finely for use, uncooked, in salads.
· Bake
at 350 degrees for one hour, peel,
· Boil
celeriac and potatoes together, mash · Steam one-half-inch slices for 5-8 minutes
· Fresh
herbs, nutmeg, garlic, cinnamon, cloves or · Braise, grill or deep fry · Serve boiled with a cheese sauce · Substitute for celery in Waldorf Salad · Use in soups, stews, purees
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Combines well with watercress, smoked meats,
· Excellent in poultry or meat stuffings · Pair with turnips or parsnips · Can be pickled or frozen Celeriac Remoulade
1/2 cup mayonnaise (preferably homemade) In a medium-sized bowl, mix the mayonnaise, mustard, parsley, tarragon, garlic and sweet pickles together. Add celeriac and toss until completely coated. Cover and chill until ready to serve on a bed of baby lettuces. Serves 4.
© Copyright, 2001, Marty Martindale, Largo FL Return to HOME PAGE
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