A review:

LOCAL FLAVORS:

Cooking and Eating from

America’s Farmers’ Markets

By Deborah Madison with

Lush photography by Laurie Smith,

Delightful illustrations by

Madison’s husband, Patrick McFarlin

Deborah Madison has a knack which

allows her to bring together unusual food

matches with very tasty results.

This is the author’s fifth cookbook, 408 pages, hardcover. In 15 chapters Madison takes you to many of the nation’s farmers’ markets, celebrating them and delivers to the book suggested menus possible at during local high season. Her earlier books have been strictly vegetables and fruits. This book contains some meat recipes when Madison encountered meats in the marketplace.

In her reflective introduction, Deborah Madison states, “In addition to being about sales and sustenance, the market is culture, regionalism and having a healthy sense of pride in one’s work and one’s land … [these farmers] not only supply food that is alive and truly nutritious but good for our state of mind, too.”

She reminds us that the marketplace is where food, goods, ideas and money are exchanged is an ancient public place, which reconnects us with our farmers. She bids us to think of the farmer’s market as the place where we can find food that is impeccably fresh and delicious, truly local, therefore truly seasonable.

Her first chapter, Greens Wild and Domestic, opens with a stunning, full-page, Smith photograph, a close up of “squeeky with vitality” lettuces, greens and herbs. The next photo page gets up close again with a cheery farmer and her child exchanging money for goods. Here, Madison gives a recipe for Nettle Soup, a Spaghetti with Overgrown Arugula and Sheep’s Milk Ricotta also Mustard Greens Braised with Ginger, Celantro and Rice.

In her chapter, Cool-Weather Miscallany , she visited the Crescent City farmer’s Market in New Orleans, she suggests a menu of:

Radish Salad with Vella’s Dry Jack Cheese

Fennel Soup with Saffron Dumplings

A Cherry-Almond Loaf Cake

Tempting, as well, is her recipe for Aspargus and Wild Mushroom Bread Pudding with chanterelle or morel mushrooms flavored with parsley, tarragon, marjoram and Fontina cheese. Her Pea and Spinach Soup with Coconut Milk lures, too.

In Herbs and Alliums, she clarifies Herb Teas vs. Tisanes and gets into Herb Sugars. A menu from the St. Paul, Minnesota Market suggests:

Crostini with Roasted Eggplant and

Pine Nut Puree

Squares of Zucchini Frittata with Ricotta and Marjoram

Extravagant Platter Salad showered with Herbs

Warm Corn Custard with Berries

And

Hazelnut Crisps

Local Flavor’s Cabbages, Kale and Other Crucifers chapter gives directions for making Napa Cabbage Salad with Peanuts and Cilantro also White Beans with Black Kale and Savoy Cabbage plus more interesting fresh food challenges.

In Corn and Beans from the Midwest, she offers this menu:

Corn Fritters with Aged Cheddar and Arugula

A Platter Salad featuring Slankette Beans and

Lemon Cucumbers

Steamed potatoes

Sun Gold Tomatoes and Tuna

Peach Shortcake on Ginger Biscuits

Lemon Thyme Tisane, iced

Additional dishes are Corn and Squash Simmered in Coconut Milk with Thai Basil and Warm Corn Custard with Berries. Her take on summer Platter Salads (no two alike) is sound one and a tease, really.

In Vining Fruits and Vegetables she presents Penne with Green and Gold Zucchini and Ricotta, also Winter Squash Braised in Pear or Apple Cider and a delightful Winter Squash “Pancake” with Mozzarella and Sage. suggestion:

Her Vegetable Fruits of Summer chapter, includes Green Chile Paste (Zhough) made with peppercorns, cumin, caraway, cardamom and other savory ingredients. Madison suggests a subtle “Saturday Lunch After Market:

Soft Taco with Roasted Green Chile and Goat Cheese

Sliced cucumbers and tomatoes

Cold freshly-pressed apple cider

For her Eggs and Cheese at the Market sector Madison refers to the “dairy states, such as Wisconsin, Minnesota, Vermont and upstate New York,” where Lamb Kebabs Marinated in Yogurt, and a Savory Goat Cheese Tart with Leeks make a tasty twosome.

Her Small Tender Fruits: Berries, Grapes and Figs chapter is packed with gems such as Grapes with New Walnuts and Crème Fraiche or Figs with Cheese, Pepper and Honey. For dessert she suggests a Fig Tart with Orange Flower Custard.

Chapter 11 is: Stone Fruits: The Warm Heart of Summer. In it, find Apricot-Lavender Refrigerator Jam, Apricots Baked in Parchment and much more.

Winter Fruits: Citrus and Subtropicals produces Blood Orange Salad with Ricotta and Watercress. For a simple winter supper she invites you to sit down to this:

Avocado and Grapefruit Salad with Pomegranates and Pistachios

Pasta with Golden Fennel

Feijoa Bavarian Cream.

In Local Flavor’s final recipe chapter, Foods that Keep, she suggest this fall menu with a hazelnut theme:

Fall Fruit Salad with Pomegranate Vinaigrette using hazelnuts and hazelnut oil

Artichokes and Jerusalem Artichokes Braised with Black Lentils, Seasoned with Hazelnut Oil,

served with

Roast Duck or Wild Rice

Pear-Hazelnut Torte.