There is
humanity to be found everywhere, often at the
most unexpected moments.
I was with
a tour group in a modest neighborhood of San
Juan on a hot May day. We had just visited the
home and workshop of a craftsman who made masks
for revelers around the world, from Rio de
Janeiro's Carnival to New Orleans' Mardi Gras as
well as local celebrations.
The others in my group decided to stroll
several blocks to see some art galleries. I
straggled along behind, taking more time than
they did. Eventually, we became separated and I
became bored. Like a sailor marooned on a
deserted island -- I was in Puerto Rico and I
did not speak Spanish -- I decided it would not
be smart for me to wander off, have the group
return and not know where I was. I decided to go
back to the tour bus to wait my group's return.
The bus was
locked so I sat down on the sidewalk, in the
shade of a huge mango tree, its branches
spreading over the yard and sidewalk, offering
shelter from the hot sun. I rested my back
against the whitewashed wall of a modest home.
It was cool in the shade and I sat there perhaps
a half-hour,
watching the occasional passing car or
mother-and-child walking past me.
This was a working class neighborhood where
dogs barked out of sight behind stone walls or
wrought iron gates, where cars honked at
unmarked intersections before speeding through,
where the few people on the uneven sidewalk
carried plastic shopping bags with local logos
and walked neither fast nor slow.
I was dressed in my best American
don't-look-like-a-tourist wear -- worn jeans,
non-descript T-shirt, floppy hat, tennis shoes.
I had my backpack beside me. I was hot and
sweaty. I looked scruffy, at best.
After about 40 minutes, an old man, lean and
worn, perhaps in his 60s, came down the
sidewalk. We made brief eye contact. Each of us
smiled slightly and nodded. The typical
stranger's greeting. He was thin and wrinkled.
His clothes were well-worn, splattered with
white paint. I guessed he was a painter or
someone who did manual labor, perhaps the
yardman or gardener.
He spoke to me in Spanish and pointed toward
the house. I had no clue what he was saying.
Probably he worked there. I smiled again, shook
my head, turned my hands palms up -- all to say
that I did not understand his words. He tried
again, smiling. I could see uneven teeth and he
needed a shave far
worse than me.
He turned and walked through the gate into
the courtyard of the house. I wondered briefly
if the owners would mind my leaning against
their wall. Would the old man tell them? I
thought about getting up and moving, but the
mango shade was just here. I couldn't see
similar shade anywhere else in on block. So I
stayed put.
In a few minutes, I saw a few familiar
faces. My group began to return in two's and
three's. As I stood up, I realize the man, the
laborer, was standing next to me and he was
handing me a bulging plastic bag. At first, I
didn't move. He smiled his uneven teeth and tan,
bristled face, nodded to me, gesturing the bag
into my hand.
I looked inside. There were dozens of
mangoes, big and small, all damp from being
freshly washed. "Thank you," I said. "Gracias,"
I managed to add.
So many thoughts went through my head and
emotions through my heart. Did he think I was
homeless, a man weary from a day's work or
perhaps a day of no work? Did he think my
stumbling attempts to understand him earlier
somehow
meant I wanted his mangos?
Or did he simply see a fellow human being to
share the bounty of his tree with?
Then my group was around me, getting on the
bus, blocking my view. "Hurry up. We're late,"
the driver said. And then, seemingly
instantaneously, we were on the bus and pulling
away from the curb., I looked out the window. My
benefactor was standing just inside his gate,
watching me through the windows as I stood in
the aisle.
On the hour drive back to our hotel, I
shared the mangoes with those on my tour. They
were the most delicious mangoes I have ever
eaten.
And that was my moment.
Fred. W. Wright
Jr. is a travel and food writer based in St.
Petersburg, Fla. He is a member the Society of
American Travel Writers (SATW), email:
TravelWord@aol.com.