Fluent in Italian, French and English with classical  training in Italian and French cuisine, he’s made sure his food experience took him from the Old World to the New World plus the Pacific where he won awards for the Four Seasons Corporation in Maui. With his Manchego moments and olive occasions Fabrizio Schenardi is a prize for any eatery. Lean and ambitious, intent and enthusiastic, he’s excited about all that tastes delicious, his taste buds and creative mind are a team to cheer. Fabrizio looks as if he hasn’t seen his 30th birthday, yet he did this six years ago.  

What’s his menu like? His Stuzzichini which he translates, “Teasers,” include Crunchy, Fried Olives Stuffed with Three Meats, his Veal-Caper dish has a Tuna Sauce. Something simpler? Resist his Lemon Lobster Martini. His soups feature Roasted Vegetables with Gazpacho Dipping Sauce down to a simple soup of Farro and Prosciutto. Cinnamon Juniper Berry Marinated Quail he links with a Green Lentil Salad, while he sends his Pistachio Rack of Lamb out with Grilled Polenta topped with a Dried Fig Merlot Sauce. Top any of his selections off with memorable Mascarpone Gelato atop a deep Flourless Chocolate Tarts or his current Custard he graces with Coffee, Grappa and Amaretto. His menu is large, we mentioned only a few.   

When asked about his signature dish, Chef Schenardi responds, “What I like best here is our seafood soup, (Pelagia Seafood Soup, Harissa-Rouille and Ciabatta Crouton). It’s made with Barbera red wine, garlic, leeks and simmered for three hours. Then we put the seafood inside when it is ready to be served.” Harissa Rouille is a fiery sauce he procures from Tunesia. Chef prefers more Barbera wine along side this entrée.   

With no less intent than a fashion stylist, Schenardi feels “In-season produce is paramount,” he states firmly. “Shipped from far away, they can lack flavor.” And while he’s at it, he prefers only two or three ingredients in most dishes, yet he teases them with any one of six worldwide salts. “You need to remember what you started eating,” he cautions.    

Fabrizio Schenardi is master of many olive options, and he feels  there’s “a million things” you can do with olives, at least in his expanded world. Currently, he’s featuring his breaded, fried olives stuffed with three meats. In the near future, he indicates we can expect olives in a mousse with almonds, served as a garnish for meat. He also describes a way he rubs olives with fresh lemon juice, grills them ‘til blackened, stuffs them with a grilled jalapeno mixture, then marinates them for a couple of days in olive oil. “I love them with salami and fresh raw fava beans in the spring. Eat this with fresh breadsticks and a nice Barbera,” he urges.   

Chef Fabriio smiles when he tells about his favorite dessert, his Rosemary Almond Golden Delicious Apple Tarte with Caremel Sauce. He describes it as golden delicious apples, almond cream and rosemary mixed with sugar and dark rum and built into a filo dough structure.  

Asked what he feels is the “next cuisine,” Schenardi counters, “With food, two thousands of years ago, a potato was a potato, a banana was a banana. Then I try things. The ingredients are the things, it’s just the way we put them together. Just as we can do ravioli with chocolate, we can fill calzone with roasted vegetables or with fruit and chocolate. There’s different ways for breakfasts or brunches, for instance, Lemon Souffle Pancakes or Waffles with Cappuccino Mousse. I think fusion these days includes cross-over techniques as people adopt foods from other cultures. The United States is fusion, not pure Italian, pure French or pure Mexican. Some French restaurants serve fois gras with the Italian risotto. Everything is getting fused together. It’s changing.” 

Soon, Fabrizio plans seasonal vegetables in clay pots for cooler months. And, he’s eager to share them. The most exciting news for Tampa is, he plans to hold cooking classes and “show people what they can do with different foods, and above all, have fun with it.”

PELAGIA TRATTORIA “Food simply prepared, dramatically presented:” is a 152-seat restaurant located on the ground floor of International Plaza’s new Renaissance Tampa Hotel, serving  breakfast, lunch and dinner, indoors and outdoors. The Trattoria has a private dining room for 25 people and a cozy bar area. Reservations:  813.313.3235

© Marty Martindale, 2004, Largo FL