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“Oh, those crunchy, slim
Cheddar breadsticks lightly laced
with a dash, or so, of cayenne pepper!”
How’s this at first glance? Your chef builds your entrée around a
six-ounce filet. He encrusts it with Cajun spices then batter-fries it.
He then stuffs it with a zesty crabmeat dressing and tops it with fried
onions, places it over a bed of garlic-chive mashed potatoes, then
surrounds it with an herbed Silver Queen Cream Corn Sauce. This reads as
the “Cajun Filet” at Rusty’s Bistro, located inside the flourishing
Sheraton Sand Key Resort, and it competes with much, much more ….
Step up and meet Executive Chef John Harris, with the Resort since 1989.
A self-admitted ski buff, he’s won many awards. As Executive Chef, he
shapes the Bistro’s cuisine and designs the menus. Harris’ early
training was with Bernhard Gotz, then he developed associations with
Chicago’s famed Charlie Trotter, Norman Van Aken and Mark Franz, and
this broadened his classical training with Floridian, French, Caribbean,
Southwestern and Asian concepts.
With this background, Chef knows Mixed Berry Marmalade and a macadamia
crust works so well with a baked brie … how fried Chevrion, olives and
almonds work in a his Phyllo Salad … how a fruit salsa has an affinity
for Asian Ahi Tuna … a balsamic-port syrup gets along with Grilled Lamb
Chops … pear prosciutto with free range chicken … the pairing of an
Avocado Timbale with his Tuna Tartare … and how a his Shrimp and Crab
Stuffed Salmon tastes better with a Blood Orange Hollandaise. Bistro
Chef Jeffrey Hiott implements Harris’ menu details .
A good dining room has certain “dependables.” For the Bistro, a regular
diner knows Chef Kugler’s homemade soups are legend and quickly asks for
his magic-of-that-day. This regular will also need to know before his
meal the dessert Souffle du Jour, and decide whether or not to order it
when choosing an entrée. This gives the kitchen time to prepare this
delicate creation properly. The sumptious Mocha Mousse or the Brulee,
the Bananas Foster and various cheese cakes need no such advance notice.
The Bistro’s menu is modular. “Small Plates” are starters or appetizers,
and sometimes a couple of them is a satisfying light meal. Adopted from
Asian tradition is their menu category, “Bowls,” sized pretty much
between the “Small Plates” and “Large Plates.” Three of the Bowl
suggestions are pastas and one a vegetarian pasta. Again almost any of
these mix well with each other, perfect for small appetites or dieters.
The “Large Plates Section” is as the name implies, full-sized entrees.
Darla Napoleon, 10-year Bistro Manager has her favorite. It’s the
Grouper Picatta and Seared Scallops. These are plated with tri-colored
potatoes and drizzled with a smooth Lemon-Caper Sauce. Another favorite
is the Conch Chowder plate. Chef’s delicate, lacy salad bowl for the
Caesar Salad is fashioned from heated Parmesan cheese. Thirty different
wines are available by the glass.
The menu is never the only show going on in the Bistro. Guests also have
the option of choosing Harris’ nightly Cuisine of the Sun Buffet with
hand-carved prime rib and three of chef’s selections, plus salads, soup,
potatoes, rice, pasta veggies and fresh fruit. On Saturday’s this buffet
features prime rib plus seafood. Friday and Saturday nights it’s all the
boiled shrimp you can eat.
Kids are no after-thought at Rusty’s. A separate 15-item menu offers
everything from “Fresh Catch” or Roasted Prime Rib to All Beef Hot Dogs
or CheeseBurgers.
Not to be confused with a brunch, the breakfast buffet at Rusty’s is
broad. Find Sand Key Favorites, skillets, Benedicts, a busy griddle,
their omelets, hash, steak & eggs, their burrito or traditional egg
combinations. Then there’s the Continental Breakfast Buffet or their
Classic Sunrise Buffet. Decisions, decisions.
Hear live jazz piano played by Spike Bamsey Tuesday through Saturdays;
first and third Fridays of the month The Spiked Pepper Trio performs 7
p.m. to 10 p.m.
Consistency is another name for this property. The Bistro is named for
the resort’s EVP and General Manager, Russell A. Kimbell. He’s held
these positions for the past 27 years, while the Resort attracts
visitors and business groups from ‘round the world. It also attracts
eager diners from across Tampa Bay, updates its fashionable face
frequently and refreshingly never seems to put new names up by the side
of the road every other year, or so.
CREDIT CARDS: All major
RESERVATIONS: Recommended
CHILDREN’S MENU: Yes
ALCOHOL: Full bar
HANDICAPPED ACCESS: Fully. Includes automated lift to elevated areas.
Dinner, large plates run from $18.00 to $28.00
Child’s dinner menu ranges: $3.25 to $7.95
Breakfast, Classic Sunrise Buffet, $12.95
Breakfast menu: $9.50 to $13.50
Child’s breakfast menu: $4.95 (under 5, free)
Senior’s breakfast special, over 60, limited items $1.99
Holiday buffets: Thanksgiving, Christmas and Easter
1160 Gulf Boulevard
Clearwater Beach, FL
Reservations: 727.593.6000, X 7001 or 800.456.7263
Dinner daily, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m
Breakfast, Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Sundays, 7 a.m.
to noon
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