THOMAS JEFFERSON

THOMAS JEFFERSON,
THE FOODIE PRESIDENT

1743 – 1826
Minister to France, 1785 - 1789
3^rd U. S. President, 1801 – 1809

When it came to food, Jefferson road the leading edge. He introduced the work of French chefs into his home, even before he lived in France. He imported oil from Italy and mustard from France, introduced vanilla and macaroni to the U.S. and owned the first ice cream freezer on record.

He enjoyed his vegetables so much, many would ask if he were a vegetarian. Jefferson’s response was “[I eat meat] “as a condiment to the vegetables which constitute my principal diet.” One of his distinctive dining room rules was guests would serve themselves from dining room dumbwaiters, away from slaves, so their sparkling conversations might not be overheard or interrupted. In the words of one guest at a lavish occasion, “Never before had such dinners been served in the President’s House.”

A man of broad, studied interests, Thomas Jefferson’s passions dwelt in architecture, gardening, music, wine and food. Though Jefferson never cooked, he passed recipes along to chefs and friends frequently. Some if his admirers went so far as to describe Jefferson at that time, “America’s Leonardo da Vinci.”

PLEASING TO THE EYE:

Jefferson’s gardens had to be pleasing to the eye. His plan included cherry trees to line pathways which were accented by brilliant vines against contrasting, brightly-colored vegetable rows. He was particular about plants along his garden borders as well.

VEGETABLES:

Jefferson’s lab was where he experimented with imported squashes and broccoli from Italy, beans and salsify collected by the Lewis and Clark Expedition, figs from France and peppers from Mexico. At times, he grew as many as twenty varieties of beans and almost as many types of English peas, always eliminating types he deemed inferior. Although the English pea was probably his favorite vegetable, he was also fond of figs, asparagus, French artichokes and the “new vegetables,” tomatoes, eggplant, broccoli and cauliflower.

Jefferson loved his salads, planting lettuce and radishes every two weeks during the growing season. He mixed his Greens with orach, corn salad, endive and nasturtiums. Also included was some prized sea kale, a cabbage-like vegetable which produced sprouts each spring. Regular crops of sesame seeds assured fresh salad oil.

FRUITS:

The fruited acreage included orchards, vineyards, berry squares and a propogating nursery. In all he experimented with over 150 varieties of 31 different fruits. In addition, the orchard grew three varieties of cider apples, also peach trees from seed. In all, the fruitery represented Old World fruit gardens and colonial Virginia’s “Farm Orchards,” the best of European heritage combined with New World vitality.

WINE:

Amid much acclaim, Thomas Jefferson, at the time, was proclaimed America’s “first distinguished viticulturist,” and “the greatest patron of wine and winegrowing this country.” though he probably never made wine at Monticello. His love for fine wines began in France where he began collecting them. He felt wine was an “innocent gratification” and a “healthy substitute” for whiskey. His eventual wine expertise led to his becoming wine advisor to Presidents Washington, Adams, Madison and Monroe.

RECIPES

No original Monticello cookbook or menus survive in a collected body. However, the greatest collection of recipes of that time are recorded in Marie Kimball’s Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book. She credits each recipe with the names of those who shared his love for food. A partial list is:

Martha J. Randolph (daughter)
Mary Randolph (Martha’s sister-in-law, author of The Virginia Housewife)
Adrien Petit (butler, 1786-1794)
James Hemings (slave trained in French cuisine in Paris)
Honore Julien (chef at President’s House)
Etienne Lemaire (butler at President’s House)
Comte de Volney (French visitor 1796)

From the recipes in the book, we glean a sense of the time and what an important role simplicity played. A brief description of selected recipes is stated below to demonstrate the food combinations of the day and sometimes an innovative method.

BLANC MANGE

Mix ground, skinned, blanched almonds with cream and sugar and incorporate it with dissolved gelatin, poured into a mould.
(Recipe from France)

MEXICAN BEAN SOUP

Boil black beans with short ribs for three hours, press mixture through a colander. Serve with roasted, butter toast. If intended for mock turtle soup, add a small glass of wine.
(from a grocer who sold the beans)

OKRA SOUP

Boil cut okra in water. After 30 minutes add lima beans and fresh meat or fowl. One hour before finishing, add 5 tomatoes cut in pieces. When almost done add a egg-sized lump of butter rolled in flour.
(Mrs. Martha Randolph)

PIGEON SOUP

Simmer 2 cut-up pigeons in 2 quarts of water for 3 hours. Strain, return liquid to pan with parsley, finely-chopped spinach, cream and bread crumbs. Add pigeon meat at end with a little salt and mace.
(Mrs. Horace Mann)

ROASTING TIP

Wash and dry meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dredge with flour and place in very hot oven. When flour in pan begins to brown, add a tablespoon shortening and baste every 10 minutes until meat is done and brown crust has formed on meat.

STEWED RABBITS, CHICKENS OR DUCKS

Place parsley and onion in belly, parboil, cut into pieces. Shred the onion, parsley and liver finely. Mix 3 tablespoons of claret or Madeira with ½ tablespoon vinegar dissolving 2 anchovies in it. Place in stewpan with a little of the liquor it was boiled in. When tender thicken with 1 tablespoon butter rolled in flour.
(Martha Jefferson Randolph)

TO STEW BEEF

Combine 2 lbs top round cut into cubes with a pint of white wine, half a grated nutmeg, 4 whole cloves and 8 peppercorns and a slice of ham cut into cubes. Stew until meat is tender. Halve hour before serving add 1 stalk of celery cut into fine pieces.
(Martha Jefferson Randolph)

STEW MADE OF COLD MEAT

Slice meat into pan with 2 large spoonfuls of water, salt and pepper. Just before serving add 3 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons walnut catsup, 2 or current jelly 2 teaspoons mustard, Let heat thoroughly and serve.
(Edgehill)

BEEF OLIVES

To a pound of chopped beef add an equal quantity of boiled rice, season, stir in 1 beaten egg. Form into small balls and put in hot oven for 20 minutes.
(Septimia Randolph Meikelham’s cook, Nancy)

CHICKEN PUDDING NO. 1

Disjoint and parboil 2 chickens. Place in baking dish, dot with butter and season. Beat 4 eggs, add 1 cup milk, 1 cup flour, 1 scant teaspoon baking powder, seasoning. Pour over chicken and bake in moderate oven for an hour.
(Mrs. Elizabeth Lea)

FISH WITH POTATOES

To boiled and shred fish, add mashed potatoes.Mix with butter, grated nutmeg, seasoning plus 2 tablespoons brandy. Beat well. Turn into piecrust and bake until set.
(Martha Jefferson Randolph)

MACARONI
Cook 2 cups broken macaroni until tender. Add 1/4 lb (each) of cheese, stir and take in moderate oven until cheese is thoroughly melted.

PARSNIPS

Parsnips may be cooked, mashed and fried in cakes like salsify.

PUDDINGS

(Note: Puddings were just as healthful as entrée items)

CORN PUDDING

Mix 6 ears of green corn grated with ½ cup cream, 2 eggs, a tablespoon butter, ½ tablespoon sugar, sprinkle of salt. Mix well and bake.
(Mrs. Derby Newport)

“GOOD PUDDING”

Line baking dish with slice of bread which have been dipped in milk. Fill center with sliced apples mixed with sugar and spice to taste. Cover with more milk-soaked bread, cover and bake one hour in slow oven.

“VERY NICE SAUCE”

Cream ½ cup butter with 1 cup powdered sugar and beat until light. Add 1 wineglass of hot wine and a dash of nutmeg. Serve at once.
(Mrs. Annie Trist)

MACARONI PUDDING

Cook macaroni in milk until tender. Add 5 eggs, ¾ cup sugar and flavor with lemon or rosewater and bake one hour.
(Mrs. Horace Mann)

For more information, see:
Thomas Jefferson's Cook Book
edited by Marie Kimball

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	THOMAS JEFFERSON, THE FOODIE PRESIDENT 1743 – 1826 Minister to France, 1785 - 1789 3^rd U. S. President, 1801 – 1809 When it came to food, Jefferson road the leading edge. He introduced the work of French chefs into his home, even before he lived in France. He imported oil from Italy and mustard from France, introduced vanilla and macaroni to the U.S. and owned the first ice cream freezer on record. He enjoyed his vegetables so much, many would ask if he were a vegetarian. Jefferson’s response was “[I eat meat] “as a condiment to the vegetables which constitute my principal diet.” One of his distinctive dining room rules was guests would serve themselves from dining room dumbwaiters, away from slaves, so their sparkling conversations might not be overheard or interrupted. In the words of one guest at a lavish occasion, “Never before had such dinners been served in the President’s House.” A man of broad, studied interests, Thomas Jefferson’s passions dwelt in architecture, gardening, music, wine and food. Though Jefferson never cooked, he passed recipes along to chefs and friends frequently. Some if his admirers went so far as to describe Jefferson at that time, “America’s Leonardo da Vinci.” PLEASING TO THE EYE: Jefferson’s gardens had to be pleasing to the eye. His plan included cherry trees to line pathways which were accented by brilliant vines against contrasting, brightly-colored vegetable rows. He was particular about plants along his garden borders as well. VEGETABLES: Jefferson’s lab was where he experimented with imported squashes and broccoli from Italy, beans and salsify collected by the Lewis and Clark Expedition, figs from France and peppers from Mexico. At times, he grew as many as twenty varieties of beans and almost as many types of English peas, always eliminating types he deemed inferior. Although the English pea was probably his favorite vegetable, he was also fond of figs, asparagus, French artichokes and the “new vegetables,” tomatoes, eggplant, broccoli and cauliflower. Jefferson loved his salads, planting lettuce and radishes every two weeks during the growing season. He mixed his Greens with orach, corn salad, endive and nasturtiums. Also included was some prized sea kale, a cabbage-like vegetable which produced sprouts each spring. Regular crops of sesame seeds assured fresh salad oil. FRUITS: The fruited acreage included orchards, vineyards, berry squares and a propogating nursery. In all he experimented with over 150 varieties of 31 different fruits. In addition, the orchard grew three varieties of cider apples, also peach trees from seed. In all, the fruitery represented Old World fruit gardens and colonial Virginia’s “Farm Orchards,” the best of European heritage combined with New World vitality. WINE: Amid much acclaim, Thomas Jefferson, at the time, was proclaimed America’s “first distinguished viticulturist,” and “the greatest patron of wine and winegrowing this country.” though he probably never made wine at Monticello. His love for fine wines began in France where he began collecting them. He felt wine was an “innocent gratification” and a “healthy substitute” for whiskey. His eventual wine expertise led to his becoming wine advisor to Presidents Washington, Adams, Madison and Monroe. RECIPES No original Monticello cookbook or menus survive in a collected body. However, the greatest collection of recipes of that time are recorded in Marie Kimball’s Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book. She credits each recipe with the names of those who shared his love for food. A partial list is: Martha J. Randolph (daughter) Mary Randolph (Martha’s sister-in-law, author of The Virginia Housewife) Adrien Petit (butler, 1786-1794) James Hemings (slave trained in French cuisine in Paris) Honore Julien (chef at President’s House) Etienne Lemaire (butler at President’s House) Comte de Volney (French visitor 1796) From the recipes in the book, we glean a sense of the time and what an important role simplicity played. A brief description of selected recipes is stated below to demonstrate the food combinations of the day and sometimes an innovative method. BLANC MANGE Mix ground, skinned, blanched almonds with cream and sugar and incorporate it with dissolved gelatin, poured into a mould. (Recipe from France) MEXICAN BEAN SOUP Boil black beans with short ribs for three hours, press mixture through a colander. Serve with roasted, butter toast. If intended for mock turtle soup, add a small glass of wine. (from a grocer who sold the beans) OKRA SOUP Boil cut okra in water. After 30 minutes add lima beans and fresh meat or fowl. One hour before finishing, add 5 tomatoes cut in pieces. When almost done add a egg-sized lump of butter rolled in flour. (Mrs. Martha Randolph) PIGEON SOUP Simmer 2 cut-up pigeons in 2 quarts of water for 3 hours. Strain, return liquid to pan with parsley, finely-chopped spinach, cream and bread crumbs. Add pigeon meat at end with a little salt and mace. (Mrs. Horace Mann) ROASTING TIP Wash and dry meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dredge with flour and place in very hot oven. When flour in pan begins to brown, add a tablespoon shortening and baste every 10 minutes until meat is done and brown crust has formed on meat. STEWED RABBITS, CHICKENS OR DUCKS Place parsley and onion in belly, parboil, cut into pieces. Shred the onion, parsley and liver finely. Mix 3 tablespoons of claret or Madeira with ½ tablespoon vinegar dissolving 2 anchovies in it. Place in stewpan with a little of the liquor it was boiled in. When tender thicken with 1 tablespoon butter rolled in flour. (Martha Jefferson Randolph) TO STEW BEEF Combine 2 lbs top round cut into cubes with a pint of white wine, half a grated nutmeg, 4 whole cloves and 8 peppercorns and a slice of ham cut into cubes. Stew until meat is tender. Halve hour before serving add 1 stalk of celery cut into fine pieces. (Martha Jefferson Randolph) STEW MADE OF COLD MEAT Slice meat into pan with 2 large spoonfuls of water, salt and pepper. Just before serving add 3 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons walnut catsup, 2 or current jelly 2 teaspoons mustard, Let heat thoroughly and serve. (Edgehill) BEEF OLIVES To a pound of chopped beef add an equal quantity of boiled rice, season, stir in 1 beaten egg. Form into small balls and put in hot oven for 20 minutes. (Septimia Randolph Meikelham’s cook, Nancy) CHICKEN PUDDING NO. 1 Disjoint and parboil 2 chickens. Place in baking dish, dot with butter and season. Beat 4 eggs, add 1 cup milk, 1 cup flour, 1 scant teaspoon baking powder, seasoning. Pour over chicken and bake in moderate oven for an hour. (Mrs. Elizabeth Lea) FISH WITH POTATOES To boiled and shred fish, add mashed potatoes.Mix with butter, grated nutmeg, seasoning plus 2 tablespoons brandy. Beat well. Turn into piecrust and bake until set. (Martha Jefferson Randolph) MACARONI Cook 2 cups broken macaroni until tender. Add 1/4 lb (each) of cheese, stir and take in moderate oven until cheese is thoroughly melted. PARSNIPS Parsnips may be cooked, mashed and fried in cakes like salsify. PUDDINGS (Note: Puddings were just as healthful as entrée items) CORN PUDDING Mix 6 ears of green corn grated with ½ cup cream, 2 eggs, a tablespoon butter, ½ tablespoon sugar, sprinkle of salt. Mix well and bake. (Mrs. Derby Newport) “GOOD PUDDING” Line baking dish with slice of bread which have been dipped in milk. Fill center with sliced apples mixed with sugar and spice to taste. Cover with more milk-soaked bread, cover and bake one hour in slow oven. “VERY NICE SAUCE” Cream ½ cup butter with 1 cup powdered sugar and beat until light. Add 1 wineglass of hot wine and a dash of nutmeg. Serve at once. (Mrs. Annie Trist) MACARONI PUDDING Cook macaroni in milk until tender. Add 5 eggs, ¾ cup sugar and flavor with lemon or rosewater and bake one hour. (Mrs. Horace Mann) For more information, see: Thomas Jefferson's Cook Book edited by Marie Kimball © Marty Martindale, 2002, Largo FL Email: mm@FoodSiteoftheDay.com *Home*